Best Rural Escapes: Exploring Kepala Batas, Penang

Kepala Batas is an ideal day trip destination if you’re seeking a lesser-seen glimpse into both ancient and rural Penang. With its traditional Malay kampung houses, rice fields, and archeological and heritage sites, this quaint rural backwater trundles along at a slower tempo, as it has done for centuries. 

Credit: @sofi_rgb (Instagram)

With its George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site, 7 World Wonders of Penang, 130-million-year-old ancient rainforest, picturesque beaches, and breathtaking street art, it's no secret that Penang island is the vacation gem of the state, attracting visitors all year round. 

But away from the well-traversed island and over on the mainland, Kepala Batas is a hidden gem waiting for your visit. Sitting on the bank of Sungai Muda, with Kedah's Gunung Jerai in its backyard, the township offers spectacular views of rice fields, traditional Malay kampung houses, and a rare glimpse into the nation's prehistoric civilization. 

Picturesque Rice Fields

Credit: @drone_yachtie (Instagram)

Located on the northern part of Seberang Perai, Kepala Batas is an agricultural village with wide expanse of paddy fields and palm oil plantations. Historically, the area was surrounded by rubber trees (which were replaced by oil palm plantations later) and paddy fields in the 50s and 60s. Today, while many of the oil palm plantations have been cleared for development, the rice fields remain the economic backbone for farmers, and a visual gem for shutterbugs and Instagrammers.

Credit: @hairstory_philip (Instagram)

“Unlike Penang island, there are no tall buildings and skyscrapers. Over here, you see a lot of flatlands filled with paddy fields. That’s why I love taking photos here,” says Kepala Batas native Suhayl Azmin Osman, who is a freelance videographer. 

“Nevertheless, they are not always green or yellow. Sometimes, all you get is dry patches of land. Generally, rice fields are harvested in February and September. So, make sure you time your visit,” he says.

Guar Kepah: Stone Age Settlement Older Than Bujang Valley

Galeri Arkeologi Guar Kepah

Established in 2019, Galeri Arkeologi Guar Kepah is an archeological site where ancient shell middens and a 5,000-year-old skeleton named “Penang Woman'' were excavated. Before the discovery of the "Penang Woman," numerous human remains, along with seashells, pottery, and hunting tools were excavated by British archaeologists between 1851 and 1934. The skeletons excavated by the British archaeologists are now in the National Natuurhistorisch Museum in Netherlands, while the “Penang Woman'' is still being carefully conserved in Universiti Sains Malaysia as it has to be in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment.  

These findings proved that Guar Kepah is the only location in Peninsular Malaysia with ancient human settlements close to the sea. It also confirmed that the settlement is older than the Bujang Valley and Sungai Batu civilizations in Kedah.

According to Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM) Global Archaeological Research Centre (GARC) director Professor Datuk Dr Mokhtar Saidin, the shell midden is not a natural shell midden. “This is from remnants of the food they ate which eventually becomes a hill. When one of them dies, they buried him in the midden, it is really unique,” he says.[1] 

Replica of Penang Woman. The original “Penang Woman” was uncovered when the area was dug up to lay the foundations for Galeri Arkeologi Guar Kepah in 2017. It was the first and only remaining Neolithic skeleton found in a shell midden in Malaysia. 

Galeri Arkeologi Guar Kepah

Address: PT 23, Mukim 2, Kepala Batas

Operating Hours: 8am-5pm (daily)

Fees: Free

Capal: Kepala Batas’ Heritage Trade

Handmade capal. Credit: @capaljago_kb_ori_1958 (Instagram)

Before sneakers, flip-flops, and other footwear options, there were capal, a traditional Malay footwear. Seberang Perai Utara, including Kepala Batas, was a centre for Islamic studies. Ulamas came from all over, including Palembang, to teach and learn Islam. [2]

These ulamas also brought cultural influences with them, such as the capal, which is a traditional Sumatran footwear. Since the early 20th century, capal (also known as kasut Palembang or kasut P. Ramlee) has been part of the Malay costume, worn with baju Melayu, samping, and songkok. As footwear evolved into fashionable sneakers and sandals, capal became less popular and are slowly fading away.

"My father told me people of all races wore capal back in the 60s. But these days, it's a vanishing trade. Some of my friends who stay on the island have to travel here to get a pair of capal," says Suhayl.

Here in Kepala Batas, JAGO is a homegrown capal brand founded by the late Haji Hashim Hassan, a famous Kepala Batas capal maker in 1958, reputed to have made the first genuine handmade leather sandals.  This traditional trade is now inherited by his youngest son Badril Shahidan Hashim. With only less than ten capal makers in Malaysia today, buying a JAGO capal guarantees you a traditional footwear and an investment in Kepala Batas' rich cultural heritage.  

Badril has made capals for Tun Abdullah Ahmad Badawi, Tan Sri Dr Rais Yatim, and Tan Sri Mohd Ali Rustam since taking over his father’s business  in 1999. Credit: @capaljago_kb_ori_1958 (Instagram)

Capal Jago Gemilang

Address: 708, Jalan Perak, Kepala Batas

Traditional Malay Kampung Houses

As a predominantly Malay settlement, Kepala Batas has a good repository of traditional Malay kampung houses. One of the most common types of traditional Malay houses is Rumah Serambi Gajah Menyusu (literally ‘Breastfeeding Elephant Porch House’) where the house's porch is lower than the main section of the hall, resembling a baby elephant suckling its mother.

Instagrammer Alif Zamre suggests visitors to head to Jalan Permatang Rambai to view well-preserved kampung houses. “The three houses are located along the same road, so it makes a convenient drive to view these beautifully preserved kampung houses,” he says.

GPS: 5.5307548, 100.3871897. Credit: @alifzamre (Instagram) 

The house of the former mufti of Penang Datuk Haji Adnan bin Haji Hashim (1905 - 1980s). GPS: 5.5301718, 100.3835744. Credit: @alifzamre (Instagram) 

Old house of Yang DiPertua Negeri Pulau Pinang, Tun Abdul Rahman Abbas (GPS: 5.527400,100.394739)

Malay Food Central

Nasi campur. Credit:  sedapnya-makan.blogspot.com

While the Indian Muslims dominate Penang island’s halal foodscapes, Kepala Batas is the home of hearty Malay meals and fresh seafood, thanks to its rural Malay setting nearby Sungai Muda, which empties into the Straits of Malacca. There are plenty of Malay dishes to try, from Nasi Campur with an assortment of kampung-style lauk (side dishes), to Cucur Udang, Nasi Lemak, Mee Rebus, and local fresh seafood dishes like Mee Kuah and Ikan Bakar.

Dishes at Din Ikan Bakar. Credit: @aidayanti (Instagram)

“I would usually drive over to the island for Nasi Kandar, but for Malay food, I personally think Kepala Batas has a healthy spread. Nasi Campur stalls like Hawa Nasi Campur serve good selections of Malay-style side dishes like Gulai Telur Ikan and Sambal Telur while Restoran Ikan Bakar Din is famous amongst tourists looking for freshly grilled seafood!” says Suhayl.

Malay version of Char Koay Teow. @fami_lgg (Instagram)

However, one Malay dish stands out from the rest - Char Koay Teow. This uniquely Penang Malay dish is a halal take on the Chinese classic street food of the same name, but it has a distinctive taste of its own. Malay Char Koay Teow is a gravy-filled flat noodle dish flavoured with prawn broth. Fried on a hot wok, it contains fillings such as chives, cockles, eggs, shrimps, and beansprouts, then topped off with pickled chillies. This area is home to around ten Char Koay Teow stalls and restaurants, so it’s by far the best place to try this dish.

Char Koay Teow CIMB Kepala Batas

Address: Jalan Usahawan 1, 13200 Kepala Batas

Operating hours: 5:30pm - 11pm (closed on Saturday)

Hawa Nasi Campur

Address: 1892, Jalan Dato Haji Ahmad Badawi, 13200 Kepala Batas, Pulau Pinang.

Operating hours: 8am - 4pm (daily)

Heryany Kitchen

Address: 26G Jalan Dagangan 14 Pusat Bandar Bertam Perdana

Operating hours: 9am - 6pm (closed on Saturday and Sunday)

Mak Long Mee Rebus

Address: Lorong Paya Keladi 3, Taman Paya Keladi, 13200 Kepala Batas

Operation hours: 11.30am – 7pm (closed on Saturday)

Restoran Ikan Bakar Din

Address: 6735, Jalan Butterworth, Kampung Permatang Manggis, 13200 Kepala Batas, Pulau Pinang

Hours: 11am to 4pm (daily)

Nasi Lemak Abe Ayam Berempah

10976, Guar Kepayang, Kepala Batas

Hours: 4.00 petang -12 malam (closed on Sunday)

Restoran Shahul Hamid Cucur Udang

Address: 45, Jalan Butterworth, 13200 Kepala Batas, Pulau Pinang

Operating hours: 8am to 9:30pm (daily)

Heritage Sites

Jambatan Merdeka. Credit: @nurhanijauhar (Instagram)

Many visitors will be pleasantly surprised that one heritage site in Kepala Batas speaks to the nation's independence, which is Jambatan Merdeka. The bridge was constructed to replace an older bridge which was destroyed by the British army to slow down the advances of the Japanese troop when they invaded the Malay Peninsula in 1942. Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman officially opened Jambatan Merdeka (Merdeka Bridge) in 1957, the year the country gained independence. 

Jambatan Keretapi Pinang Tunggal. Credit: Ridhuan Abu Bakar

Another historical site worth visiting is the Jambatan Keretapi Pinang Tunggal, a solid black-coloured wrought iron bridge that hulked over the Muda River. Estimated to be built between 1912 and 1915, it is a triumph of early modern British engineering. [3]

"When I was a child, my family and I would pass by the railway to return to my father's village in Baling, Kedah. I remember hoping to see a passing train each time I set my sight on the railway crossing, not knowing that the bridge was no longer in use for a long time," says photographer Ridhuan Abu Bakar, 38.  

Although no longer in use, the wrought iron bridge is a favourite subject for photographers looking to capture an engineering masterpiece of a bygone era. Villagers can still be seen using the bridge as a crossing. 

Tourist Attractions

Due to its close proximity to the Kedah border, Kepala Batas is a convenient spot to spend an additional day before leaving the state. There are tourist attractions in nearby towns like Penaga and Tasek Gelugor for visitors looking to maximise their visit, too.

Pasar Bisik is where buyers traditionally make their auction bids by whispering their offers to sellers. Credit: @Shafiqshahri (Instagram)

Located just a short drive away from Jambatan Merdeka, Pasar Bisik is a central trading point for fishermen and fishmongers from the surrounding areas, including Kedah and Perak. The fishermen here practice a bizarre trading ritual where bidders whisper into the fishermen's ears for the day's catch. This trading practice is considered by many as a living heritage; you will not find any other 'whispering' fish auction market anywhere else.

Kampung Agong. Credit: @vivian_neoh (Instagram)

Another place of interest worth checking out is Kampung Agong in Penaga. Highly rated by netizens on social media, it boasts an Instagram worthy kampung-style location with traditional wooden houses overlooking paddy fields and coconut trees. For an entrance fee of RM6, visitors can walk or cycle around and make use of the unique photo opportunities such as the giant bird-nest swings.